Looks like you have most of the the key bits the same (i.e the MOBO, CPU, GPU, memory and storage), but the case is different, as are the keyboard and mouse. You also added a monitor - I am guessing one comes with the Amazon offer, or not? That’s $219 difference right there.
So, if you take the monitor away and assume the rest of the differences come out in the wash, I would say that looks pretty close. The only question I would have is what power supply is in the Amazon one. Rubbish power supplies, I was told, can hamper and materially damage the utility and enjoyment of a PC. Other Chewers might have a view on that. Assuming you went with the partpicker recommendation for wattage, you have chosen a decent one in your list and it isn’t too expensive, so that won’t have thrown the comparison out of whack but because pre-built often go cheap on power supplies I would say that is a possible area where you may not be getting the same quality for the price.
As for the warranty - I spent a bit more to have a longer period of them either coming to fix it on site, or covering the cost of couriering it to and from their workshop. I think it was a year onsite/collect and return, with years 2 and 3 return to base at my cost. I don’t know whether you can shop around, but at least it might help compare the value for money of what Amazon are offering you.
I went with a single point warranty to avoid having to faff about dealing with individual manufacturers, and reduce interface risk of them blaming each other with me likely not knowing whether I was being fed bullshit (interface risk - the bane of many international project finances; who says work doesn’t give you transferable skills!). I imagine a warranty claim is going to be painful no matter what, so you’re willingness to pay extra for that might be different. I would say go for it, especially if the onsite/CAR term is reasonably good, given how much you have spent on the PC.
The case, K+M I put in were the comparable priced items based upon a Google search for the items the Reviewer listed in my post above. The exact items were not available but those cost the same as the items I found online. Same with the power supple. Reviewer says 500W and the closest in price I found was that 520W.
As I said, the only question mark I would have is the quality of the power supply in the pre-built one. More competent PC users/builders might know where else they have skimped. Otherwise, it certainly looks like a cracking deal.
Your CPU, pulls in about 100W and the GPU about 150W, which means with everything else you are running a little on the high side of the PSU. I like to build PC’s where I’m using about half what it can provide and don’t go for anything less than gold certified. Saying that, 500W is the recommended PSU for a GTX1070 and with your warranty I think you’d be quids in.
I already have monitors keyboards etc, so those are just extra tat for me, but if you have nothing it looks great.
You’ll probably be upgrading the K&M in a few anyway. Most people do. And now you have a spare, for when you rage when you don’t get the right kind of dress or bandana for your character in those loot crates.
Welp, hit the Place Order button on Amazon a few minutes ago. Monitor arrives Wednesday and PC arrives Friday. I have to work Saturday so I should be up and running late into Friday or Saturday evening.
How do I hook my PS4 controller up so I can play games on this thing?
I am half serious. I will probably play D2 with a controller and try my K+M luck with other games.
I think you’ll need a PS4 controller USB adaptor. They’re around $8 on Amazon. I tend to use the Xbox PC controller and have had zero problems with it. There’s probably a PS4 version out there. (i.e this).
A[quote name=“TzuDohNihm” url=“/community/t/159448/tzudohnihm-joins-the-pc-master-race#post_4450739”]Welp, hit the Place Order button on Amazon a few minutes ago. Monitor arrives Wednesday and PC arrives Friday. I have to work Saturday so I should be up and running late into Friday or Saturday evening.
How do I hook my PS4 controller up so I can play games on this thing?
[SIZE=8px]I am half serious. I will probably play D2 with a controller and try my K+M luck with other games.[/SIZE]
[/quote]
Congratulations!
I also use the XBox wired controller for pretty much everything. Pretty sure you can stream from a PS4 to the PC too, but I may be wrong. I bought the Steam Link to go the other way.
Yeah , you have to get the Sony Bluetooth adapter majig. It works ok, but I find myself using my wired xbox controller so I don’t have to deal with charging the PS4 controller. Also, be aware you can only pair it to one device at a time. If you pair it to the adapter then you have to pair it to the PS4 again and the other way round. It was such a pain I just got an extra controller.
A[quote name=“TzuDohNihm” url=“/community/t/159448/tzudohnihm-joins-the-pc-master-race#post_4450739”]Welp, hit the Place Order button on Amazon a few minutes ago. Monitor arrives Wednesday and PC arrives Friday. I have to work Saturday so I should be up and running late into Friday or Saturday evening.
How do I hook my PS4 controller up so I can play games on this thing?
[SIZE=8px]I am half serious. I will probably play D2 with a controller and try my K+M luck with other games.[/SIZE]
[/quote]
That’s how it started for all of us, Tzu. Reasor was going to use his for some simple spreadsheets and now he’s a level 352 Orc Wizard Chief in the World of Warcraft, with 5k hours under his belt.
A[quote name=“MrSaxon” url=“/community/t/159448/tzudohnihm-joins-the-pc-master-race#post_4450820”]That’s how it started for all of us, Tzu. Reasor was going to use his for some simple spreadsheets and now he’s a level 352 Orc Wizard Chief in the World of Warcraft, with 5k hours under his belt.
[/quote]
SLI is a fuckin nightmare. Almost every new game is a struggle. If you can even get it working, half the time the performance gains will be offset by the dreaded microstuttering.
If you like playing games when they first come out, forget it. Official SLI support is an afterthought for most publishers. If they do allow it early on, it’ll be “forced alternate frame” mode, which often means microstuttering.
My weird SLI laptop basically needs to power of both cards to run anything at a tolerable framerate, so for every game I spend an hour or two between the Nvidia control panel, Riva Tuner messing with refresh rate caps, Nvidia inspector messing with SLI profile tweaks, etc.
This should tell you all you need to know: Google (insert game name here) “SLI performance problems”. Inevitably one of the first answers is always “That’s easy to fix, just disable SLI!”.
